One of China’s greatest culinary traditions originated in Yangzhou, as did the popular folksong Jasmine.
ANYONE who has watched the 2008 Beijing Olympics will have heard the dignified music of the medals ceremony, replete with the regal tones of ancient bronze bianzhong chimes Similarly those who tune in to China Central Television’s CCTV9 will be familiar with the melodious theme song of the weather report.
The two pieces of music may sound dissimilar but are in fact different renditions of the folk tune Molihua (Jasmine). The song originated several centuries ago in Jiangsu, a province which, among other things, is acclaimed for flowing folk melodies, and the evocative ballad’s home is none other than 2,500-year-old Yangzhou.
Besides being a vital commercial hub in times past, Yangzhou’s rich local culture had a marked influence on the nearby region. In fact, much of the cooking known as “Shanghainese” evidently originated there.
The five yellow-roofed pavilions in Yangzhou’s Slender West Lake represent the five Confucian values of benevolence, righteousness, propriety, wisdom and sincerity.Food was obviously a major delight of the wealthy salt merchants of yesteryear and no doubt enhanced by the visits of several emperors to the city through the ages. It comes as no surprise that Yangzhou is home to one of China’s four great gastronomic traditions – the fresh, subtle and visually appealing Huaiyang cuisine so highly regarded it found its way into the imperial kitchen.
Our enthusiastic guide (who was more host than guide) brought us to a small, quiet restaurant set back from the hustle and bustle of the city one day. He gave instructions for our meal to be prepared by the chef himself and sure enough, that was the best repast we had had so far on the trip.
The difference was not so much in the ingredients but rather in the preparation. There were noodles made from shredded dofu braised in a soupy broth – a signature dish of the city, and a “tiger fish” that looked like white blobs bearing no resemblance to seafood. Golf-ball sized meatballs of chopped pork known as shizitou or lion’s head and served one to a small bowl on a bed of greens were another favourite.
I remember eating these lightly draped with a cabbage leaf at dim sum restaurants in Hong Kong, but had no idea they came from Yangzhou, as apparently did the humble yangchun noodles served in a clear broth.
And yes, that perennial favourite of Chinese restaurants all over the world – Yangzhou Fried Rice is really from Yangzhou. Although our host apologised for the dish’s simplicity, I enjoyed its lightness, helped no doubt by the region’s excellent rice.
All that slicing and chopping requires sharp blades so it is no wonder that the city is famed for its “three knives”. It doesn’t take much to guess that one of them is the kitchen chopper; as for the other two – hair scissors and nail cutter, they no doubt have their own intriguing stories.
Early one morning we headed for the city’s Slender West Lake, named after Hangzhou’s West Lake. The 2 sq km park was created by connecting the watercourses, gardens and villas of Yangzhou’s salt merchants to welcome Qing dynasty Emperor Qianlong 250 years ago.
The formality of this luxuriant park makes an interesting comparison with the intimate, contemplative private gardens of the scholar-officials of Suzhou. Willow trees edge the elongated lake and line the long straight walkways, while mufurong (cotton rose) bushes with white and pink-edged blooms add refreshing touches of colour.
Pavilions at strategic spots provide resting places from which to admire the picturesque bridges and small boats that ply the elongated waterway.
The tranquil, elegant beauty of the Slender West Lake was marred only by a huge, garish yellow-roofed “dragon” tourist boat moored in one corner and, as the morning wore on, by maddening guides with squawking microphones.
According to a government website, the city has spent over 20 billion yuan to preserve its ancient heritage and improve infrastructure since 2001. This has culminated in Yangzhou receiving the UN Habitat prize in 2006.
In March 2008, the Slender West Lake site together with the city’s historical centre was submitted for Unesco World Heritage application.
Much of Yangzhou’s appeal lies in the fact that it is still not yet as inundated with tourists as are some of the better-known cities in the Jiangnan region, though this situation is set to change very quickly.
Our host said the journey between Yangzhou and Shanghai used to take half a day and required a ferry ride across the Yangtze River but the opening of the Runyang Bridge in May 2005 has greatly improved accessibility and shortened travel time dramatically.
As we prepared to leave, he threw some tantalising teasers at us. Yangzhou, said our host, produced millions of stuffed toys a year; teahouses and bath-houses are part of local life; the tomb of the 5th son of Han dynasty Emperor Wudi was found there, and the city is home to guqin (zither) masters and woodblock printed books.
I can hardly wait to return to this beautiful cultural city.
Ziying can be reached at ziyingster@gmail.com
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