MEDAN Pasar or Old Market Square as it is fondly referred to by "ancient'' KL-ites, is the oldest business district in Kuala Lumpur. It doesn't take long for one to soak in the old world charm of its colonial structures against a back drop of modern highrise buildings that include legal firms, banks and corporations.
The small clock tower is still there, just as the rows of double-storey structures, some of which could do with a fresh coat of paint.
In this square, one is also bound to find pharmacy stores, book shops, small retail outlets and coffee shops that have retained their original look and charisma.
If you are adventurous with a love for things quaint and understated, then this is the place for you. Getting there is not a problem as it is easily accessible.
You can hop onto a bus and work your way to Central Market or the Medan Pasar bus stop. For train commuters, the nearest stations are located at Pasar Seni and Masjid Jamek.
So, what's good to eat around here? There are plenty, but our reporter would narrow it down to only two noteworthy locations.
Okay, let's start with the established makan places here. Right at the corner of the square is Sin Seng Nam coffeeshop.
A city landmark: Sin Seng Nam coffeshop has been in business for over seven decades.
Listed in travel guides and personal web logs of food lovers, this place needs no formal introduction. It's also one of the city's oldest eateries catering to the culinary needs of city folk and visitors for no less than seven decades.
A coffee shop worker whom our reporter met had confirmed this. He said the coffeshop began operation in the early 30s and while the first generation ran the shop for a long time, its business is now being managed by the second generation.
Now, if you love toasted bread and freshly brewed 'kopi-O', this is the place to go. Prices here are pretty affordable for just about anyone – from despatch boys who dash in for a quick bite to lawyers discussing about the day's proceedings.. Even retirees love coming in to have a cuppa and chat about current issues and the good "ole" days.
The interior walls of the coffeshop are adorned with old photographs of Kuala Lumpur. Its high-ceiling and long windows add on to that nostalgic feel of the pre-war days.
House special: The chicken chop that's crispy outside and juicy inside.
When it comes to the chow-down, the daily special serving of assam gravy fish and chicken curry rice is highly recommended.
These are the ‘chieu phai' (house speciality) dishes and are priced at only RM5. Availability of the dishes depend entirely on the cook's schedule.
Also popular, is the Hainanese chicken rice that is one of Seng Nam's signature dishes.
And if you love something from the colonial era, there's always the chicken and lamb chops. Our photographer and I tried out the coffeeshop's chicken chop and we've rated their dish as "recommendable".
A good cuppa: Nothing like a hot cup of coffee with evaporated milk served on a ceramic cup and saucer.
With a crispy crust, the chicken chop is juicy and tender inside. This is complemented with its own brown gravy and side dishes like fried potato chips and baked beans.
Also noteworthy, are the mee rebus and rojak that is served by an Indian muslim stall at the coffee-shop.
The shop, serving pork-free food, is open for business from breakfast to lunch and is usually packed from 12pm to 2pm, so, if you are pressed for time, it is advisable to head there early,
As far as prices are concerned, the food here is slightly lower than in a kopitiam you find at shopping malls.
A plate of lamb chop will cost you RM13 while a hearty serving of chicken chop is RM10. Fried meehoon costs about RM5 a serving and well, if you have toasted bread, half-boiled eggs and a cup of steaming hot coffee, it is all below RM10.
This is not all, there are also other hidden "gems". Just take a walk around the narrow alleys along the finges of the square and you'll find plenty of warong (stalls) offering nasi campur which is a preferred meal among office workers who usually ta pau (pack) them back to the office.
And if nasi briyani is your favourite dish, then you are in luck. Check out Lorong Bandar 13 where the stall is located.
Eat in or take away: This nasi briyani stall is one of Lebuh Pasar Besar's best-kept secrets
There's no signboard here and the telling sign is the big crowd. They queue in an orderly manner for this speciality packed in laminated brown paper.
You can choose between fish, chicken, quail or mutton briyani. Prices range from RM4.50 and above. The all-time favourite at this stall, is the briyani ayam (chicken briyani). Well with so much to sample in this area, aren't you simply spoilt for choice?
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