A TURTLE OF YOUR OWN, COOL !

A turtle of your own, cool!
HEIDI MUNAN (Pictures by NADIM BOKHARI, KHAMSIAH BOHARI, Heidi MUNAN and sarawak forestry)

Move over, doggy! Move over, kitty! HEIDI MUNAN only has eyes for sea turtles though she admits they are not pets to cuddle up with

DOGS and cats are all very well and, if you’ve got the space, a cow or a pony might be pleasant additions to the family. There’s something even to be said for pythons or cockatoos and goldfish do have a following.

But the really cool pet of the century is the sea turtle. Admittedly, they are not very cuddly. If you want to take yours for a walk you’ll need a very long leash – their average travelling radius is 3,000 kms!

They reach maturity at an average 15-20 years, the average number of eggs a female can lay is 100-120. And their average lifespan is 100 years... IF the creature survives that long!

The Island Of Talang Talang Besar

Please Protect Us

Sea turtles have everything going against them. Predators, both human and animal, greedily eat their eggs. Sea birds and fish gobble up baby turtles the minute they leave their sandy cradles and wriggle their way to the sea.

Fishing nets routinely entangle and drown turtles – though it’s a sea creature, the turtle needs to come up and breathe at regular intervals.

Drifting rubbish, particularly plastic and rubber, chokes and strangles turtles who mistake the flotsam for food. Plastic bags resemble jellyfish, one of their favourite foods! A distressing number of turtles end up in cooking pots of those who crave exotic treats.

“I’d say about one in 1,000 hatchlings (turtle-speak for “babies”) survives to maturity and lives a normal lifespan,” says a Sarawak Forestry officer who is well-versed in the problems of turtle conservation.

What has the Sarawak Forestry got to do with sea turtles? Are these reptiles forest dwellers?

They’re not, but wildlife protection on land and sea is managed by the department. There’s a special Working Group for Turtle Conservation and they’ve come up with a Sea Turtle Adoption Programme, a scheme under which anyone can adopt an adult turtle or a “nest” of eggs on an island in the South China Sea.

Adoptive parents will be informed about the welfare of their wards, for instance how many hatchlings have left the nest and started their life in the dangerous element they love, or how many eggs an adult turtle has laid.

Besides adopting a turtle, wildlife friends from far and wide can sign up as volunteers.

The National Park Quarters Near The Hatchery

Turtle Volunteers

What does a “turtle volunteer” do? Most of them will simply contribute a set sum of money for the support of the Sea Turtles project. But if they happen to be in Sarawak during the “nesting” months from May to September, they can apply to do a stint of actual volunteer work at the Talang-Talang turtle islands complex!

This is a privilege few people other than Sarawak Forestry officers ever enjoy as the islands are strictly off limits to casual visitors with fingers and toes!

Registered participants in the project, however, will be allowed to work on the island for three days so they can see for themselves what’s being done and what still needs to be done to save one of the world’s most ancient surviving creatures.

Sea Turtle Volunteers will share the spartan accommodations of a Forestry officer. They’ll patrol the beaches at night, torchlight in hand, to supervise turtle landings. They’ll be carefully securing new nests.

They’ll be counting eggs, and later hatchlings, to get accurate statistics on fertility rates. They’ll spend quite a bit of time with charts and tables and records. They’ll nurse hatchlings in shallow ponds till they’re at least big enough to evade the smaller of the enemies waiting for them in the dark blue deep.

A word of warning: Volunteer work in the Sea Turtle Programme is not suitable for a school excursion or a social club outing. Only a few volunteers are admitted to the island at any one time and their “slots” are carefully regulated. Talang-Talang belongs to the turtles, not humans, and it’s going to stay that way.

Sematan Pasar Is The Usual Staging Point For Talang Talang

Adopt A Turtle

Sea turtles, as a species, date back… millenniae? Millions of years? Well, a long time! But their friends are well provided with up-to-the-minute technology. All the details on how to become a turtle sponsor, how to adopt one of the interesting reptiles, how to sign up for an unforgettable working holiday on Turtle Island, are to be found on www.sarawakforestry.com

If you don’t feel comfortable with websites, call Francis Gombek at 082-610 088082-610 088 for a wee chat and let them tell you all about it.

Protecting Turtle Eggs From Predators Is A Full Time Job

A Distant View

Everybody can help preserve turtles, whether as sponsor of a turtle, a nest, or a signed-up volunteer. Unfortunately, not everybody can get a turn at island duty.

But take a holiday on Sematan beach, immediately opposite the newly-gazetted National Park of Talang-Satang, and gaze at the green hillocks on the marine horizon. That’s where your pet lives, where its eggs are hatched and where your contribution is being put to good use.

Having gazed your fill, go sailing, kayaking, hill-trekking (some lovely waterfalls in vicinity) or seafood-gobbling in Sematan or nearby Lundu.

By the way — when ordering dinner, DO NOT ask for Turtle Soup!

Netting Protects The Precious Turtle Eggs While They Hatch

SIMPLY GORGEOUS

Simply gorgeous
KATIE CHAN, Pictures by KATIE CHAN

The Three Gorges Dam is the world’s largest hydro-electric project in China that when completed, will flood an area the size of Singapore. KATIE CHAN jumps at the chance to have a close look

LIKE most Malaysians, anything “tallest, biggest and longest” inspires me. So when the chance came up for me to see the world’s largest hydro-electric project in China, I jumped.

I was even piqued by its name, Three Gorges Dam.

Three giant gorges? Wow, how would they look up close, I wondered.

I had watched the documentary of the dam numerous times on National Geographic Channel and each time I told myself I had to go and see the real thing! Moreover, the controversy that clouded the building of the enormous dam was a pull in itself.

Upon completion, the dam will claim 13 cities, 140 towns, and 1,350 villages and over 1.2 million people will be displaced! It is touted as the world’s most notorious dam for its spiralling costs, technological problems, human rights violations, resettlement difficulties and more important of all, the adverse environmental impacts.

Century Diamond cruises through Qutang Gorge, the shortest of the three gorges

Environmentalists predict that the situation is likely to get worse as time goes by after its completion. Erosion of the reservoir and downstream riverbanks are expected to cause landslides and threaten one of the world’s biggest fisheries in the East China Sea.

Scientists estimate that annual catches will be reduced by one million tonnes due to the decline in fresh water with sediments reaching the sea.

On the other hand, the Three Gorges Dam is also known for its dramatic scenery and rushing waters of China’s greatest river, the Yangtze, which had inspired many Chinese poets and painters.

I wondered if the beauty and grandeur of the Three Gorges would be submerged by billions of tonnes of water by the time the Chinese finally completed the dam. Not having sailed on the Yangtze, it’s hard to say.

Stunning 'Goose Neck' in Snow Jade Cave

Cruising The Yangtze

My trip began in Chongqing, an ancient city with history dating back 3,000 years. It’s located on the upper Yangtze River at its confluence with Jialing River and is known as a mountainous city in central China.

Everyday, an average 40 large cruise ships ply the Three Gorges, which lie between Chongqing and Yichang. These offer cruises of three or four nights, depending whether you are sailing up or down the river. There are no real differences either way, except that going upstream will add a day to the trip.

The cruise ships sail along one of the mainland’s most scenic stretches, with the Three Gorges Dam now a must-stop. In fact, the dam has become a major attraction that draws some 15,000 visitors daily.

I was aboard New Century, a brand new ship equipped with spa, gym and fine dining. Every cabin has a private balcony, telephone, satellite TV, mini-bar and all amenities found in a five-star hotel.

There are also organised activities onboard, so you can learn how to make Chinese noodles and attend lessons on Chinese calligraphy. But it’s still a good idea to bring some reading materials for the long cruise.

We left Chongqing just before dusk and quietness slipped into our cabin to induce a relaxing sleep. After breakfast the next morning, we arrived at our first shore stop – the town of Fengdu.

According to Chinese legends, Fengdu is where the devil lives! They say that spirits go to heaven and the evil goes to Fengdu! Ming Shan Hill, home of Tianzi, the King of the Dead, overlooks the town.

But, far from being eerie, the town is quite pleasant. I could see that the locals were begining to adjust to life after they moved here from their old village that was flooded when the dam was first built. The new town is on slightly higher ground across the river.

The people are mainly farmers and you can find a wide variety of fresh fruits and vegetables in the local market. The air is filled with the unmistakable fragrance of chillies and peppercorn that spice up the local cuisine.

Imposing Cliffs Of The Qutang Gorge

Fantasy Snow Land

The highlight of our stop was just seven miles away – Snow Jade Cave, the youngest cave discovered in China in the last century. Because of its uniqueness and beauty, it quickly became a popular scenic stop along the Yangtze River and served as a research site for those who study caves.

It was an exhausting two hours’ climb to the cave, but it was all worth it. White stalagmites and stalactites create an awesome, rugged snow land and in some softly lighted parts, the white formations are in shades of blue and green. The vision remained in my mind long after I had returned to my cabin.

Later that evening, I relaxed in my room balcony, with a drink in my hand. It was easy to be lulled along by the rhythm of the river as we continued our journey.

The Construction Of The Three Gorges Dam Is Now In Its Final Year

Three Beauties

Soon we caught sight of the imposing cliffs that guard the western entrance of the Qutang Gorge, the shortest of the famous Three Gorges. Though it’s only 8km long, it’s rated as the most dramatic of the three, with narrow, spiralling and sharp pinnacles that reach out to the sky. This is perhaps why a picture of this gorge is printed on the Chinese 10-yuan note.

The next day, we covered the 44km Wu Gorge, the most beautiful of the three. It zigzags deep into valleys and forest-covered mountains of weird peaks with rising mists and beautiful sights of Badong County and Hubei Province.

Wu Gorge is divided into two sections – the Golden Helmet and Silver Armour Gorge and the Iron Coffin Gorge.

Then after a sharp bend, the scenery changes dramatically. This is the most beautiful part of the Yangtze. With green trees and bushes, fogs and clouds that cover the high peaks, this is the scenery that have left many painters breathless!

The best known peak is the Goddess Peak, with its graceful shape of a girl looking down at the boats on the river. Many mythological tales and countless numbers of poems have been written about this particular peak.

There are many other strange peaks, some of which seem to pierce the clouds, flanking the Daning River at the western entrance to Wu Gorge. This section is known as the Lesser Three Gorges.

Nanjin Pass In Yichang. The Bridge Connects Two Hills Across The River

Tujia Time Warp

Our ship docked at Badong and we were transferred by ferry for an excursion up Shennong, a tributary of the Yangtze. Its fast-flowing, crystal clear waters run southwards through deep gorges. The stream races past small and large limestone caves, flocks of swallows, sheer cliffs, deep gorges, waterfalls, three-coloured springs, rapids, an ancient plank path, a suspended coffin in the cliff, groups of ancient tombs and marvellous limestone formations.

The river began to shallow, so we climbed into a sampan-like vessel and ethnic Tujia oarsmen rowed us to where the ravine was so narrow that only a small sliver of the sky was visible.

This was the closest we would get to the riverbanks on the trip. We spotted the odd kingfisher and monkeys.

The Tujia continue to make a living the same way their forefathers did, rowing in groups of five to take a boatload of tourists up the Shennong. While the rest of China flourishes through modernisation, this community still clings to the old ways.

The Last Gorge

Later we returned to our ship for a farewell 12-course Chinese dinner. After that, we went to the observation deck and waited patiently as we sailed into the dam locks that cut across the longest of the Three Gorges, the 76km Xiling Gorge.

It extends from Badong County in the west to the Nanjin Pass in Yichang in the east but the dam is entirely within Hubei Province.

Once notorious for its treacherous rapids and shoals, the passage is now tamed, allowing for a smooth ride between buoys that mark the channel.

It was a thrill to see ships going through locks that even allowed seagoing cargo vessels to sail up or down the reservoir between Yichang and Chongqing.

It took us 3½ hours to pass the locks – five in each direction. There’s even a ship elevator due to be completed by 2011, which will allow smaller vessels to make the crossing in 40 minutes.

Boon Or Bane?

Whatever your views about the controversial project, few fail to be impressed by this gigantic engineering feat! The Three Gorges Dam is China’s biggest engineering project since the construction of the Great Wall. Due to complete by early next year, it will back the Yangtze River up for 550kms, flooding an area the size of Singapore. The concrete wall will stretch 2.3km from bank to bank. At its busiest, there were more than 25,000 people working on the site. Now, just over 2,000 workers remain, including our knowledgeable dam guide.

Everyone I met on the trip had only positive things to say about the construction of the dam. When finished, the Three Gorges Dam will produce the energy of 15 nuclear power plants and put a stop to the river's deadly floods that killed about 1 million people in the past century and caused extensive damage to crops and property.

Its 26 German-made turbines are expected to supply about three per cent of the mainland’s energy, reduced from the 10 per cent estimated earlier because of rising demand.

The dam has now entered its final year of completion, with the installation of the remaining power generators. Once completed, the water level will be raised, for the first time, in September this year, to 175m.

The concept of progress has always been a dynamic paradox, a roller-coaster of destruction at one end and progress at the other. In recent decades, nowhere in the world has this been more evident and profound than in the People's Republic of China.

And nothing is more symbolic of it than the Three Gorges Dam.

Cruise Packages

New Century Cruises offers five-star full-board luxury cruises either downstream (Chongqing-Yichang) or upstream (Yichang-Chongqing) from US$1,000 per person twin-share. Some trips can be continued to Wuhan. There are shore excursions daily. For details, please check, http://www.centurytrip.com

How To Get There

Cathay Pacific flies from Kuala Lumpur to Hong Kong daily and connects with Dragon Air to Chongqing, China. Dragon Air can fly you from Wuhan, China to Hong Kong daily.

Best Time To Travel

Autumn and spring are considered the best seasons for cruising the river, with temperatures ranging between the mid-20º and 12º Celsius.

TAWAU, TOWN WITH CHEQUERED PAST

TAWAU: town with chequered past

Story and pictures by Sager Ahmad

TAWAU, the third largest town in Sabah, is located on the south-east coast facing the Celebes Sea. Here, it’s “three for the price of one” as one can get products and services from Malaysia, Indonesia and The Philippines as well.

The booming frontier town has, for a long time, attracted migrant workers from the two neighbouring countries to work in the timber mills, oil palm and cocoa plantations as well as factories processing marine products.

But despite the proximity to Indonesia and the Philippines, Tawau is as Malaysian as any town in semenanjung, said Wardawati Insurdin, a freelance tour guide, "Malaysian visitors to Tawau will get this nostalgic feeling as so many things looked familiar – the vehicles, buildings and facilities and the ubiquitous red or white plastic chairs and white formica tables at the open air warung." Tawau was only a small coastal fishing village under the Sultan of Sulu until it was ceded, in 1878, to the North Borneo Charter Company headed by William Cowie – hence the name Cowie Bay.

"Today, it is a bustling town with cocoa and oil palm plantations and it is an industry leader in terms of research and development of cocoa," said Wardawati.

The cocoa tree, a native of South America, was first brought to Sabah in the 18th Century. Today, it is grown in abundance everywhere. Wardawati said the town can easily win the title of Asia's Cocoa Capital.

"An indication of how important the crop is to Tawau is the holding of the annual Cocoa Festival which features colourful cultural dances. The cocoa estate on Quoin Hill is on the "must visit" list and tourists go there to see "chocolate" trees and to visit a factory to learn how cocoa is made.

"Apart from cocoa, Tawau is also famous for seafood, much of which is exported to Hong Kong, Japan, Singapore and Peninsula Malaysia. For the freshest prawns and fish, head for the new Central Market near the harbour on Jalan Dunlop. "On Sunday mornings, an interesting tamu or street market is held at the corner of Jalan Apas and Jalan Kuhara while another crowd puller is the open-air night stalls opposite the Sabindo Shopping Complex on Jalan Chen Fook," she said.

"Tawau has received (positive) international attention in the past with many VVIP visitors. Among them were King Carl Gustaf XVI and Queen Silvia of Sweden accompanied by a 60-member delegation March, 1996.

"The royal couple stayed at Belmont Marco Polo Hotel which can rightfully lay claim to being the VVIP hotel in Tawau. Their itinerary included a visit to Sipadan Island," she said.

Sabah's oldest and largest commercial prawn farm is in Tawau and aquaculture is a big business. There are more than 527 shrimp culture farms, 500 hatcheries and 40 fish cage culture farms in Tawau.

In 1879, the British established administrative capitals at Sandakan, Temparuk and Papar. In 1881, the Chartered Company of British North Borneo was established and William Cowie was one of the administrators.

This lasted until 1941 when Japan occupied Borneo (1941-1945) in World War II and following that, Sabah was placed under the British Military Administration (BMA). In 1946, the Company surrendered its rights to the British Government and on July 15, 1946, Sabah became a British Crown Colony.

Sabah obtained its independence by officially joining Malaysia (together with Sarawak) on Sept 16, 1963.

There are many Japanese names in Tawau like Jalan Nisan Norin, Jalan Dr Yamamoto, Jalan Kuhara with a school named Sekolah Menengah Kuhara, a military camp named Kem Kubota and a golf course with a similar name.

There is a Japanese war cemetery and monument in a fenced-up compound with a locked gate, not far from the town centre. Approach it from a side street and you can enter from the rear as the fencing is gone. Residents nearby have noticed that at times, some Japanese visitors would come to pay their respects.

Tawau was important to the Japanese during World War Two (1941-1945) for its timber and minerals from the surrounding forest and hills.

Jalan Kuhara bisects Jalan Tengku Osman, named after Jeneral Tengku Osman Mohd Jewa, the Armed Forces Chief then. Tawau was also of strategic importance during the Konfrantasi with Indonesia between 1963-1966 and a monument in town shows a soldier holding a sub-machine gun and a grenade.

When Sabah joined Malaysia, Indonesia protested by launching Konfrantasi and its troops invaded areas in Johor, Sabah and Sarawak.

Tawau was the springboard for the defence of east coast of Sabah and many of our soldiers, mostly young men from all over the country, saw action there.

A monument of the infamous "Kalabakan Incident" is found at Kalabakan on the Kalimantan border, two hours drive from Tawau.

"On Dec 29, 1963, Indonesian soldiers ambushed the Third Royal Malay Regiment and eight soldiers were killed, including company commander Mej Zainal Abidin Yaacob, while 16 others were injured." There is a dire need for an information centre so that visitors can learn more about Tawau as not much is available. On Dec 1, 2001, Tawau airport shifted to new premises at Balung (which means bone in Javanese), some 33km away from the town.

The move to the RM228 million airport was expedited after an accident. In the Sept 16, 1995 mishap, a Malaysia Airlines Fokker 50 crashed into a squatter village at the end of the runway, killing 34 of the 49 passengers on board; the villagers escaped unhurt.

The Balung airport is big enough for the Airbus A-330 and can accommodate 580,000 passengers. Tawau Hills Park, spread over 28,000 hectares, was gazetted in 1979 primarily to protect and preserve the beauty of the Merotai, Tawau and Balung rivers. Visitors enjoy trekking to several waterfalls in the area and the natural hot spring where they can watch monkeys and hornbills and admire the wild orchids.

There are several golf courses in Tawau and amongst them are Kubota Golf Course, Sigalong Golf & Country Club, Tawau Golf Club and the Shan-Shui Golf & Country Resort.

The latter, located 15km from Tawau town, is an 18-hole golf course designed by Nelson & Haworth. It is acclaimed as their finest design in Asia while US Golf Magazine ranked Hole 15-the Creek, one of the Best 500 holes & Top 250 par-4 in the world! Its general manager Yaacob Mohammed said most of the golfers who come to Shan-Sui are Koreans, many of whom stay long-term at the resort chalets to escape the cold winter months in Korea.

UNDER THE SPELL OF FERRINGHI

UNDER THE SPELL OF FERRINGHI

The tsunami destroyed lives and property but it would never wipe away memories of a place many have come to love. Neither would it keep away tourists who have come to regard Penang’s Batu Ferringhi as a second home, writes Putri Zanina. Pictures by Za’aba Johar and courtesy of Ferringhi Beach Hotel

EVEN in the wake of the tsunami, Penang’s Batu Ferringhi continues to lure its die-hard “friends”. Calling themselves ”Friends of Ferringhi”, the group of regular foreign guests came and stayed, despite the tsunami hitting Penang on Dec 26. The group had always stayed for months on end at their favourite Ferringhi Beach Hotel.

Chairman and secretary of Friends of Ferringhi, Dutchman H. van der Sluys said he has been coming to Penang with his wife every year for the last 20 years and this year is no exception.

”In the last few years, we’ve spent four months every year at the Ferringhi Beach Hotel. We love this hotel because of its friendly and helpful staff, the cosy, quiet atmosphere, the good food and reasonable prices. Moreover, we get to meet other travellers with a similar lifestyle and travelling preferences.”

Others in the group, formed six years ago, are tourists with similar interests from England, Scotland, Wales, the Netherlands, Italy, Australia and Canada.

Numbering 120, most of them retired, these different individuals find pleasure in meeting in Ferringhi to escape the cold winters of their countries. They would normally stay from December to March.
Their pleasures are simple: getting a suntan and great massage and definitely chilling out with friends at their favourite places in Ferringhi.

Applying to join the Friends of Ferringhi is quite simple. Sluys said anyone aged 50 and above who were regular guests of the Ferringhi Beach Hotel would be considered. Membership is free of charge. Each member receives a Friends of Ferringhi identification card and the society’s regular newsletter.

Society members not only find joy in sharing their travel experiences and strengthening international friendship ties through gatherings and activities at the hotel and in Ferringhi but they also help to promote the place to family members, neighbours and friends.

The society was formed quite by chance. During one of his long stays at the hotel, Sluys met many yearly ”returners” who shared one common problem – tiresome air travel predominantly caused by lack of legroom on airplanes.

This single mutual complaint led the group to establish Friends of Ferringhi to negotiate with airline companies flying into Malaysia (specifically Penang) to make air travel more comfortable for the elderly.

The group’s requests included convenient and fast check-in at airports, preferred seats with more legroom for the elderly and special tariffs for holiday-makers aged 65 and above travelling on Business Class.
The group would forward requests to the airlines when they travelled and while they have made some headway on some occasions, their aims have yet to be fully realised.

The recent tsunami disaster did not keep the group and other foreign tourists away from Penang. A post-tsunami assessment by the Tourism Ministry revealed that hotel occupancy was above 75 per cent in Penang and Malaysia Airlines’ flights to the island were operating as normal with no cancellation of flights to Malaysia reported during the period.
Although initially there were some cancellations of hotel bookings, most tourists already vacationing in Penang extended their stays.

Ferringhi Beach Hotel general manager Lau Cheong Leong said none of its guests check out even after the tsunami. The hotel was not affected as it is located on higher ground away from the beach.

Hotels closer to the beach and which were affected by the tsunami, cleaned up their grounds within 24 hours. Mostly, only the gardens, outdoor terraces and swimming pool areas were damaged.

Now life in Ferringhi is back to normal and it’s business as usual for the hotels there. Tourists are up and about, enjoying their vacation.
We were in Ferringhi in November, and just like those foreign Friends of Ferringhi, we have been returning to Penang and staying in Ferringhi for our family vacation every year.

There is a certain magic and nostalgic air about Ferringhi. It’s a resort village with old-world charm, yet it’s not without modern international appeal.

Though the sea is not conducive for swimming, the lovely white beach, small bays and coves – each with a different character – still beckon.
The place is self-contained and there really is no need for those looking for complete relaxation to venture out to the city.

The only time we braved the horrendous Georgetown traffic was to have our nasi kandar lunch at the famous 24-hour Line Klear food stalls tucked in an alley off Jalan Penang.

A short stop at Komtar and the relatively new Gurney Mall did not see us get into a shopping frenzy. But at the Ferringhi Night Market, we did just that. There was just no stopping the urge to bargain for clothings, leather goods, souvenirs and other items. There was no question of whether we actually needed them or not. The fun was in the shopping and the walk along the nearly 2km pasar malam was a good calorie-burner.
Now who can resist yummy Penang food? And you get plenty of it in Ferringhi. The aromas, sights, sounds and glittering lights at the street market are simply irresistible.

While the jaunt at the market was our nightly ”entertainment”, the time spent in the Ferringhi Beach Hotel was totally relaxing. Since we’d seen much of Penang on previous visits, we chose to just unwind at the hotel. The resort ambience was lovely and the room was pleasant and comfortable. We stayed in a newly-renovated Deluxe room on the 11th floor, one of four floors renovated since September last year.

Over a nice steamboat dinner at the Kontiki Terrace Coffeehouse with Lau and hotel assistant manager communications Cheah Mei Lin, we learned there’s more in store to make the hotel more appealing to guests. Besides the newly-renovated rooms with enchanting Malaysian touches such as a display of Penang batik paintings on the walls, Lau said they would eventually replace the “apples and oranges” fruit basket with a platter of Penang nutmegs. Later, he would also introduce jambu air (when in season) and other local fruits.

“We’ll start with the VIPs and Deluxe rooms. Guests will receive the nutmeg platter with informative notes on the history of nutmeg and its uses. We would also later introduce the Penang rojak fruit platter complete with information on the different types of fruits used to make rojak.

“We’ll also put up posters containing information on the various products in Penang. It’s our way to help promote Penang and make a difference in our service,” said Lau.

In the day, we escaped to the swimming pool with a view of the blue sea beyond. We found our beach sanctuary when crossing the overhead bridge from the pool area. It was a secluded bay with no one else there except for some boats passing in the distance. Water sports activities such as para sailing, wind surfing, water skiing, canoeing and jet skiing took place some distance away from the hotel.

At that moment in time, nothing could pull us away from the sheer bliss. Ferringhi has cast its magic once more, and just like Sluys and his Friends of Ferringhi, we too, will remain loyal, with and without the tsunami.

GETTING THERE...

Bridge, stretching 13.8km, connects motorists from Butterworth to Georgetown on Penang island. Bridge toll of RM7 is collected only on the mainland. Ferry services between Butterworth and Georgetown are also available. Return fares (60 sen adult, 30 sen child and RM7 car) are paid at the Butterworth terminal. KTM trains from the north and south stop at the Butterworth railway station and from here, it’s convenient to take the ferry across to Penang. By air, Malaysian Airlines has daily flights to Penang while AirAsia operates three flights per week.
Batu Ferringhi on the northern shoreline of the island is about 30 minutes away by car from Georgetown city centre. Ample signage helps motorists head towards Batu Ferringhi.

ACCOMMODATION
Batu Ferringhi area has a wide range of accommodation from budget lodging to international standard hotels, one of which is the Ferringhi Beach Hotel. It offers rooms with private balconies overlooking the beautiful Andaman Sea.
Facilities: 350 rooms and suites all fully equipped with modern amenities. F&B outlets: Kontiki Terrace Coffeehouse serving delightful local and international fare with special themed buffets in the evenings, daily steamboat dinner, charcoal grill barbecue buffet dinner on Saturday night and “Family Fun” Sunday buffet lunch (free 1 lunch with 4 full paying guests); Reef Lounge for refreshing cocktails, sports programmes on Astro, live band performances and indoor board games; Han Kook Kwan restaurant serving Korean barbecue and steamboat daily except Tuesdays; and Sunkissed Bar by the swimming pool. An overhead bridge near the pool links the hotel to a secluded beach, a perfect hideaway.
Hotel offers guests daily complimentary return shuttle service to Georgetown and will also arrange, upon request, various water sports activities, fishing trips and tours of Penang.
Business travellers have access to the Business Centre with secretarial services and Internet facility. A ballroom with maximum capacity for 550 persons and five function rooms are available for various functions and events at attractive rates.
Current Room Promotion: The Great Ferringhi Deal from RM108++ (room only for Malaysian guests). Surcharge of RM30 per room per night is applicable on eve of and on public holidays.
The 4-star hotel belongs to the Federal Hotels International group and a member of UTELL International.
Location: Jalan Low Yat, Batu Ferringhi. For reservations, call 04-8905999, toll free number (Malaysia only) 1-800-888299, fax 04-8905100, email ferringhi@po.jaring.my /reservations@ferringhi.com.my or log on to www.fhihotels.com

MUST DO
Comb the lovely Batu Ferringhi beach and engage in water sports. Have refreshing dips in hotel swimming pool, enjoy cool drinks and laze on deck chairs.
At Ferringhi Night Market, get some great bargains or simply savour Penang specialties at the many food stalls or restaurants.

TAMAN NEGARA

Taman Negara

Pictures by Chan Ah Lak, Sharon Chan and courtesy of Taman Negara

IT is said that “when one door closes, another opens”. This saying may well apply to Taman Negara, Malaysia's premier National Park, a 4,343 sq km reserve of tropical rainforest some 130 millions years old.
To reduce the detrimental impact of too many tourist arrivals and over-development of infrastructure, a new gateway into the park was open in 1993.

IT is said that “when one door closes, another opens”. This saying may well apply to Taman Negara, Malaysia's premier National Park, a 4,343 sq km reserve of tropical rainforest some 130 millions years old.

To reduce the detrimental impact of too many tourist arrivals and over-development of infrastructure, a new gateway into the park was open in 1993.

This new entry point, situated in Sungai Relau, 7km from Merapoh and 33km from Gua Musang, has been aggressively promoted and recently I decided to check it out.

On Aug 10, 2000, Pahang Culture, Arts, Tourism and Women Affairs executive committee chairman Datuk Maznah Mazlan was quoted in an English daily as saying that “The Government has promoted Kuala Tahan (in the south) as the foremost entry point to Taman Negara, and since it is already so well known around the world, the time has come to introduce Merapoh (nearest village to Taman Negara West).”

On a three-day official visit to the Park, Maznah was very impressed with the set-up at Sungai Relau and pointed out its great tourist potential. She was quoted as saying: “Merapoh (gateway) has all the ingredients including jungle trails, caves, waterfalls, animal hideouts and wildlife. But the best part about Merapoh is that you can trek up Gunung Tahan in four days compared to seven by the Kuala Tahan trail.”

Gunung Tahan (2,187m above sea level), is the highest mountain in peninsular Malaysia and has always been a favourite challenge for mountain climbers.

From Sungai Relau, a return trip for a group of 12 persons will require the services of a nature guide who will charge RM300 for a four-day expedition. The take-off point for the climb at Kuala Juram (KJ) is linked to Sungai Relau (SR) by a 14-km metal jeep track.

Climbers will be driven in by a 4WD, at the current rate of RM15 per person. Accommodation, in rooms or hostels, is available at Sg Relau and Kuala Juram. An alternative is the campsite, with many gazebos and stone seats. The grounds are kept clean and tidy by the nine-member staff and their families who live within the compound.

No food is available in Sg Relau, so visitors will have to bring their own provisions and cooking utensils. A community kitchen/eating area, public toilets and round-the-clock electricity are adequate facilities for a frills-free holiday.

Guestrooms are spacious and air-conditioned with attached bathrooms and three single beds each. Living in the midst of nature's wonders however, more than compensates for the lack of 5-star hotel facilities.

On arrival at Sg Relau, you will have to register at the guardhouse, go to the office to collect your room/hostel keys and then you are on your own to do as you like. You can choose to simply relax and laze around or get real physical and engage in some vigorous aquatic activities and jungle trekking.

One favourite activity is to kayak downstream from Kuala Juram to the ranger's post at Kuala Yu. Shooting the Jeram Buta rapids is the most challenging part. Along your way, however, do stop to admire the extremely beautiful river view, aquatic plants and animals or look for animal prints at Jenut Atai and Jenut Kumbang. The mountain stream is clean and clear, chilly cold if you are brave enough to go in for a refreshing dip. The whole journey may take two or three days to complete and requires camping in the jungle.

The numerous forest trails arouse the curiosity of the adventurous. Many visitors try the 4.1km Negeram Trail behind the Sg Relau Rest House because it is the most easily accessible.

Tropical rainforests, with their multitude of flora and fauna and fascinating jungle sounds, envelop you in all their splendour, as you walk through.

Visitors are also allowed to float downstream on inflated rubber tubes at Sg Relau. The Interpretative Trail, 200m from the SR Information Centre, has 20 self-explanatory stations and is great for observing wildlife and learning about jungle trees and plants. Animals like the tiger, gaur, tapir, deer, leopard, musang (fox), elephants and sun bear have been sighted, though most of the time they are heard rather than seen because of the thick foliage. Salt licks and animal hides increase sighting chances.

But walking or driving on the 14km KJ-SR jeep track is good enough to sight many animals and countless species of birds. This is a dream destination for nature lovers and photographers.

On our trip, my friends and I encountered 88 species of birds and caught views of the musang, a python, monitor lizard, Indian civet cat and many monkeys.

We did not have to stray far from the main roads and compounds to spot hornbills, owls, hawk eagles, buzzards, trogons, monarchs, malkohas and many species of babblers, flower peckers, bulbuls and finches.

An interesting new attraction in this part of Taman Negara is the 4-year-old Kelah Conservation Project, a joint effort of Universiti Sains Malaysia (USM) and Perhilitan (Forestry) Malaysia.

The kelah is a foot-long freshwater fish whose breeding habitat and diminishing population is being threatened by river pollution. Since Sungai Juram and its tributary, Sungai Tanum, have conditions conducive to the breeding conditions of this particular species, great efforts have been taken to breed the kelah, either in captivity or to feed them in the wild.

We were privileged to witness Mustafa Karim at work. He is the Taman Negara staff member in charge of feeding the kelah at the fish sanctuary in Kuala Juram.

Armed with a pail of fish pellets, Mustafa diligently went about his task. It was fascinating to observe him ringing an ice-cream bell to summon the fish to feed. Soon the water around him bubbled with excitement as the red-finned kelah and the black kejor jostle to snap up the pellets.

Visitors are allowed to feed the fish too with the braver ones venturing into the water, armed with the pellets in their hands or in bottles which they slowly tipped to pour the pellets out.

For city folks, this is indeed a unique experience to stand in water with so many squirming fish brushing their legs and pecking at pellets from their hands.

With so many activities to choose from, Taman Negara Sungai Relau is definitely worth a visit!

BEKELAH WATERFALLS

Bekelah waterfalls, By Zalina Mohd Som (czar-lina@nst.com.my)

Never ever stereotype the beauty of nature and the adventure that comes with it. That was what we learnt from our short trip to Bekelah Waterfalls, located deep within the virgin jungle of Bekelah Forest Reserve in Maran, Pahang. The adventure kicked off with a 20-minute ride on a one-tonne lorry from our rendezvous at Kampung Gong Mosque to the park entrance. Never ever stereotype the beauty of nature and the adventure that comes with it.

That was what we learnt from our short trip to Bekelah Waterfalls, located deep within the virgin jungle of Bekelah Forest Reserve in Maran, Pahang.

The adventure kicked off with a 20-minute ride on a one-tonne lorry from our rendezvous at Kampung Gong Mosque to the park entrance.

It was not long until we hit the real jungle after going through a long sandy and rocky trail.

“You were actually walking on a riverbed,” Saiful Bahari Sulaiman of Eco-tec Explorer Centre said much to our surprise.

He said during dry season, the meek water flows to an underground channel and emerges at another point.

Soon as we got out of the jungle trail, a huge spread of almost-flattened granite greeted us. It was an open-air panorama – from the edge, the trees looked like bushes lining the ‘small’ stream and the granite floor that opened up the clear blue sky.

“This is Tingkat Dua camp which is famous for its daylight scenery and beautiful starry nights and sometimes even the lights of nearby kampung and town,” Saiful Bahari said.

From here it would be long walk along the river to Tingkat Tujuh, the top of the Bekelah Waterfalls which could be tricky and dangerous, he alerted us.

While echoing a similar gushing sound, the clear-water river changes as it manoeuvres between the boulders and rocky river-bank.

It can be as wide as 10-12 metres wide which can flow to a huge calm pool or at time it squeezes to just a metre wide trench with perfectly cut banks!

There is also a cascading waterfalls which from afar looks like glittering diamond under the sun while at flatter part, it looks like a riverine paradise complete with water lilies and pandans.

Third, fourth and fifth tiers (or almost 90 minutes) later, we reached Tingkat Enam which has a huge deep pool with dark green coloured water that received a massive supply of water from tall Tingkat Tujuh fall.

“It will take an arduous vertical trek to the top from which you can trek to the peak of neighbouring Jerangkang Waterfalls,” Saiful said.

He said ideally it would take three to four days for an expedition from Bekelah to Jerangkang Waterfalls.

The Travel Times team was taken on the Bekelah Waterfalls expedition by Eco-tec Explorer Centre. For more info, call Eco-tec Explorer Centre at 019-9..., 019-9... or 013-9....



Getting There

If you are an alert motorist, you will notice signboards for Jerangkang and Bekelah Waterfalls at Paya Bungor area, along the Maran-Kuantan Road. Those coming from Kuala Lumpur, look out for the signboard just a short drive after passing Maran town. Right after the signboard Jerangkang Waterfalls, there is a newly built mosque of Kampung Gong – located opposite the Jabatan Bekalan Air office complex. The mosque usually is the preferred pick-up point. Pick-up transfer is charged on a per person per trip rate. The two restaurants next to the mosque provide parking lots at a daily rate. For more info, call Eco-tec Explorer Centre at 019-9469692, 019-9076431 or 013-9607406.



ACCOMMODATION

Though there is no authorisation needed to enter Bekelah Forest Reserve, it is advisable to get the necessary documentation or permit. A report should be made at the nearest police station, for trips without a licensed guide or tour operator. There is a small recreational area just before one steps into the real jungle. Here, there are facilities like toilets, bathrooms, camping sites, benches and a simple hall. For group outings, please contact the State Forestry Department. However, there is no charge for those who want to camp ‘inside’.

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